September is also the month for pruning climbing roses - a task I shall find myself repeating for the coming month before leaf duty is under way.
Like shrub roses, certain rules have to be followed.
- Wear good gloves. (I thoroughly recommend the Town and Country Ultimax. Excellent gloves with huge versatility and finger protection.)
- Make sure your secateurs are sharp. Blunt blades will damage and tear the plant.
- Put up the training wire first. This must be at least 2mm wire to be of adequate strength. Try to use vine eyes or ‘screw-in’ eyes, rather than any old nail - when those winter storms come, you will be happy to follow this advice. Tension the wire as best as you can.
- Always tie the rose to the wire. Never use the tensioned wire as the tie.
- Always work out how you want the rose to grow before beginning to prune.
- First cut out the 3 Ds: The dead, diseased and damaged.
- Always prune just above a bud. Not too close or too far, about 1cm is adequate.
- Try to prune to a bud that is facing the way you want future growth remembering to cut out any stems growing in the direction of the wall.
- Do not worry if you think you have pruned too hard. The rose will come back if well fed.
- If your rose suffers from Black Spot, sweep up all the old leaves and burn. This is a genetic problem so do not be disheartened by any apparent resilience to treatments in future. It just means your rose has the ‘Persian Yellow’ rose as part of its pedigree.
- Feed the rose with a good root feed and mulch with well-rotted manure.
One more tip, if you are worried about cuts to your arms, a wise old head gardener I served under gave me this tip. Find an old pair of wellington boots and cut off the feet, then use the ‘ankles’ as arm guards.
-- Guy Deakins


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